Well, folks, it’s miserable out there. The heat, the humidity, the bugs, the smoke from the wildfire, the looming threat of El Niño.
But at least we have ice cream.
Yes, it’s finally that time of year for my annual newsletter about the undisputed champion of summer (after the mosquitoes). Here’s my new list of frosty options for those days when nothing will cool you down except a frozen treat. Also, be sure to check out last year’s shipping, as most of the recommendations are still valid.
A combination of ice cream and natural wine
New York is the land of weird mash-ups. The hot dog shops that also sell papaya juice. A wonderful bakery tucked into an otherwise nondescript office building. And don’t forget the ice cream parlor/natural wine bar.
That last label is part of it Caleta, on the border of East Village and Alphabet City. Right across from Tompkins Square Park, this is an ideal place to stop by for an inspired scoop Bad habit ice cream. The flavors are constantly changing, but always reliably interesting, whether it’s coconut stracciatella, a not-too-sweet cafe con leche, or burnt cheesecake.
You could stop there, with a cone or a pint to go, of which there are plenty. But if you’re hungry, you can take a seat at the bar and try one or two glasses of sparkling red wine from the Czech Republic or an orange wine from Spain while you munch on warm sourdough bread with salted butter or a full plate of smoked prosciutto. In other words, just the type of low-lift meal that defines the season.
Go hard on soft ice cream
When the soft-serve wars begin, where do you stand? As a Mister Softee loyalist? With Ray Alvarez and his candy store? On mountains of boba milk tea soft ice cream from Xing Fu Tang? Or next to Morgenstern bananas and its dairy-free soft serve?
Unlike the original Morgenstern’s, the list of options at this offshoot is relatively short and (all) sweet. And if you hate bananas, you’ll be happy to know there are plenty of creative and classic alternatives, including coffee hazelnut, a chocolate option richer than any other chocolate soft serve I’ve ever had, and Thai coconut tea. There’s also a fridge stocked with seltzer and water, a handy antidote to that thirsty feeling you always get after a scoop or three.
If all those newfangled flavors are confusing you, I always reserve a spot in my recommendations for a classic, easy option. This year that honor goes to Eddie’s candy store in Forest Hills, Queens. To some, the existence of this old-school soda fountain may be old news (it’s the oldest ice cream parlor in town, after all), but in a city that’s constantly on the move, it needs reiterating how awesome this place is.
Eddie’s gets quite busy on weekends, with families vying for a table or a seat at the counter, where they can enjoy vanilla ice cream and sundaes served in delicate sterling silver bowls. However, if you don’t plan to stay, I’d suggest you go very, very politely to the front of the line and let the cashier know you’re only here for a cone – there’s no real distinction between those who are dining or eating out. But then again, you still have to be a bit pushy to get here.
In other news…
This week reviews from Pete Wells Henhouse Hainan in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, serving the comforting dish known as Hainanese chicken rice, as well as an excellent curry laksa and chicken liver mousse spiced with scallion and ginger.
Openings: Ru Thai, a restaurant inspired by the floating markets of Damnoen Saduak, is now open in Cobble Hill; the Hotel Chelsea will open Cafe Chelsea on Friday (Bastille Day); and, after a legal battle that made its way to the New York State Supreme Court, from Delmonico will reopen to the public on September 15.
Kayla Stewart profiles Maya-Camille Broussard, the pastry chef behind the recently opened Justice of the Pies store, on Chicago’s south side. Ms. Broussard, who is hard of hearing, designed the store to be accessible to others with disabilities.
After a devastating winter only 10 percent of Georgia’s peach crop survivedreports Kim Severson.
These are heyday for vegan ice creamwrites Christina Morales, with plant-based ice cream parlors popping up all over the country.
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