Cota 45 Ube Miraflores 2020, 12 percent, $31
I am fascinated by the wines of Ramiro Ibañez of Cota 45, who explores the terroirs of Jerez through a range of unfortified wines made from palomino and other indigenous grapes. Jerez is, of course, best known for its sherry, but Mr. Ibañez, the Blanco brothers and others have proposed an alternative regional history of multiple grapes with a focus on terroirs. Miraflores is a great introduction to the Cota 45 wines, savory and pure, very evocative of the best sherries yet different. Like I said, I’m fascinated. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, California)
terroir historical 2017 Priorat Blanc, 13 percent, $35
Dominik Huber makes excellent Priorats and other Catalan wines under the Terroir al Límit label. Terroir Históric, his second label, is dedicated to thirst-quenching, yet intriguing wines that explore Mr. Huber’s conception of the region’s historical styles. A mix of garnacha blanca and macabeu that has been aged in concrete for six months, this bottle is tangy, spicy and surprisingly subtle. (European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)
Laura Lorenzo Daterra Viticultores Manzaneda Gavela da Vila 2019, 12 percent, $35
Laura Lorenzo explores ancient vineyards and traditions largely in Galicia in northwestern Spain. Here’s another wine made from palomino: Although the grape is best known in Jerez and southern Spain, Mrs. Lorenzo found an old vineyard on sandy granite soil. She fermented the wine in large old chestnut casks with a short maceration on the skins, so this is a mild orange cuvée, slightly tannic, fresh and lively. It has lingering flavors of dried fruit and flowers and an intriguing texture. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines)
Nanclares and Prieto O Bocoi Vello de Silvia 2020, 12.5 percent, $37
This is a Rías Baixas albariño, although it is not labeled as such. In addition to the wines they make from their own vines, the excellent producers Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto complement their production with grapes from other local farmers, as in this bottle. The grapes were foot pounded, fermented with native yeast and aged in traditional old chestnut casks. The result is a subtle, textured wine with stony, floral flavors that linger long after swallowing. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines)
