I’m used to rhubarb baked into cobblers, chips and crumbs, but it also sparkles when treated as a savory ingredient, like in Naz Deravian’s khoresh rivas, a vegetarian version of the big, comforting spring stew often made with lamb. . Here, rhubarb cooks on a bed of beans simmered with fried parsley and mint, becoming soft and tender in the steam from the pot, yet retaining its color and delicious flavor.
This is not a quick dish – it takes some time to prepare and fry the parsley and mint, and to fry the onions and simmer the beans. But the result is amazing, more like a Statement Bean, a Celebration Bean, a Party Bean! And if you’re using dried beans instead of canned beans, you can use two cups of that cooking water to give the braise even more depth.
If you want a faster meal, and you love the mildly sweet and savory flavors of stir-fried tomato and eggs, I’d like to introduce you to Dety McKinnon’s Tofu and Tomato Egg Drop Soup.
The soup is quick and you make it by seasoning a can of crushed tomatoes with sauteed scallions and ginger, ketchup and sesame oil. While the sliced tofu is floating in it, drizzle over some beaten eggs. It’s hearty enough for a hearty meal at the end of the day, warm and cozy and packed with protein. But if you happen to work from home, it can be a really nice lunch to make for yourself on a dreary day (it comes together in just 15 minutes).
Here’s another excellent lunch: fried tofu with mixed grains. Samin Nosrat, who wrote about how she regularly made this in a co-working space, recently told me it’s still her favorite way to cook tofu. The dish is so scarce and the ingredient list so short that you might be suspicious at first! But soaking medium-firm tofu in liquid aminos and then frying it in coconut oil will boost the flavor and take full advantage of the custard-like texture. For something so simple it is unexpectedly luxurious.
Mara’s Tofu With Mixed Grains
Go to the recipe.
One more thing!
In case you missed it, earlier this week The Veggie hosted its first virtual event (watch the playback here). DailyExpertNews Food editor Emily Weinstein, and author and chef Samin Nosrat, were both with me to talk about the joys of vegetarian home cooking. Readers came in live to ask questions, and I mentioned a few books as we chatted:
“Classic Indian Vegetarian Cuisine” by Julie Sahni. This came up when a reader wanted to know why her homemade saag paneer didn’t live up to restaurant versions. Sahni’s version is less about cream and butter, which restaurants often rely on, and more about the texture and seasoning of the vegetables, with the luxury coming from the fried paneer itself (although you can drizzle ghee all over it if you want it extra). buttery).
“East: 120 Vegan and Vegetarian Recipes from Bangalore to Beijing” by Meera Sodha. This is a really great collection of recipes from one of my favorite chefs and recipe writers. The curries and noodle dishes are particularly rewarding, and I love how Sodha also has quick ideas for cooking with pantry staples.
“Veggie Burgers Every Where” by Lukas Volger. This came up because a reader was on a veggie burger trip and learned how to make one that could withstand the grill. There are so many things to think about: drying out ingredients as much as possible before making the patty, playing with the size and binder. This is the book for anyone who wants to experiment and achieve something very specific with their pasties, but it’s also a great general source for ideas.
Thanks for reading The Veggie. Quick Note: Last week my editor Tanya Sichynsky stepped in to answer reader questions, including one about avoiding nightshades, and accidentally pointed out a gnocchi recipe made with potatoes (a nightshade).
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