Some matzo ball recipes call for seltzer instead of plain water. It’s an old granny device to keep them light. So when my granddaughter Julia Fabricant was craving matzo balls for the batch of chicken stock she made at home in college quarantine last winter, she asked for a recipe; mine included seltzer. Although she had a matzo meal in the pantry, there was no seltzer in the house. So she improvised and used beer with great results, but kosher for Passover beer is hard to find. “How about cider?” she suggested. “Or champagne,” I replied. It functions. I’m swapping kosher for Passover sparkling wine for seltzer this year.
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