Good morning. Olga Koutseridi, a baker and graduate student counselor at the University of Texas, Austin, grew up in Mariupol, Ukraine, transcribing and testing family recipes from around the city after the Russian invasion of the country. She said it is an act of resistance and preservation during the destruction of the port city, as our Julia Moskin reported for The Times this week.
“I had the urge to record,” said Ms. Koutseridi. “It suddenly seemed like it was all going to disappear so quickly.”
This weekend you might help make sure that doesn’t happen. Make a fish borscht commonly eaten in Mariupol (above), with white beans, red peppers, potatoes and sprats in tomato sauce, a pantry of small herring canned in a spicy mash. Try chebureki, deep-fried fries filled with juicy minced meat and onions. And make ryazhanka, a sweet and sour dairy drink that won’t be ready for a few days. (You bake milk until it’s caramelized and toasted, then ferment and cool it.)
But that’s not all we have for you. Genevieve Ko has a cool new cookie breakfast sandwich recipe that’s ideal for a weekend morning, accompanied by a delicious quick raspberry jam. (Maybe I’ll put some on pancakes too.) Keep going.
Later, you can try Melissa Clark’s latest: a ginger pan fried chicken with rhubarb and red onion. (And have a rhubarb macaroon pie for dessert.)
Other options: Clare de Boer’s grilled chicken skewers with tarragon and yogurt; Eric Kim’s crispy tofu with sweet and sour sauce; Nik Sharma’s ground lamb pulao.
But at some point, like Steven Raichlen, I’m going to grill the perfect steak. His recipe is for a reverse seared tri-tip, the meat is slow roasted over indirect heat for 30 minutes or so, rested for up to an hour and then seared over high direct heat until sizzling, crispy and perfectly rare. Once you reverse sear, you’ll never go back. Strawberry shortcake to follow, for sure.
More inspiration awaits on our TikTok, Instagram and YouTube accounts, and of course DailyExpertNews Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to access. Subscriptions make this whole operation possible. Please, if you haven’t already, will you subscribe today? Thank you.
You can write to us at cookingcare. for help with that, or with our technology. Someone will come back to you. And you can always write to me: foodeditor.. I wish I could respond to everyone. But I do read every letter sent.
Now, it has nothing to do with cumin lamb or lobster stew, but Susan Burton’s Times review of Selma Blair’s memoir, “Mean Baby,” makes it clear that Blair can write a bit. “In the fall of 2002, I saw a tarot reader in Los Angeles,” the book begins. “I had just been cast in a film that was about to run for six months in Prague. I was 30 years old, anxious and searching.”
For Taste, Cathy Erway tells the story of the La Choy brand, “The Korean Immigrant and Michigan Farm Boy Who Taught Americans How to Cook Chow Mein.”
All you need to enter the Race to Alaska is a boat without a motor. Starting in Port Townsend, Washington, the team that reaches Ketchikan first will receive $10,000. Second place gets steak knives. As Aldyn Chwelos reports for Hakai, survival is the real reward.
Finally, here’s Pete Seeger introducing one of his brothers, Mike Seeger, and the rest of the New Lost City Ramblers before the group plays “Man of Constant Sorrow.” Watch that and I’ll see you Sunday.