Tokyo (DailyExpertNews) — Near the town of Fujino, on busy Route 20, just 40 miles west of Tokyo, is a narrow, single-lane tunnel.
Passing through it, Japan’s modern incarnation seems to disappear as travelers enter cedar forests and winding mountain roads that lead deeper into an even less forgiving side of rural Japan.
Free of gas stations or convenience stores, a few houses line the road or on hilltops, accessible only by small paths. Usually only hikers going to or from Mount Jinba or weekend cyclists give any sign of human life.
It is in this forested landscape, where life changes with the seasons, that Shuji Kikuchi decided to do what many dream of: buy and refurbish an ancient wooden house and create a weekend home in the Japanese countryside.
“Nakamaru”, as he and his partner have called it, took seven years to create. The property is overlooked by Kikuchi’s own tea-covered hillside and is separated from a few neighbors by a picturesque stream and bridge.
Just over an hour from the heart of Tokyo, it is a rural oasis but also a labor of love.
“It’s like having an old car, there’s always something to work on to keep it running,” says Kikuchi.
The entrance to Shuji Kikuchi’s rural holiday home.
Dean Irvine
The Tokyo native spent five years searching the area for an affordable old property to buy and restore with the craftsmanship and character lacking in modern Japanese homes. (The roof collapsed in a particularly heavy snowfall to prompt Nakamaru’s elderly former owner to sell in 2014.)
Walls were erected in place of the traditional “shoji” screens that once separated rooms. Insulation – not even common in modern Japanese homes – was added under the floors to cope with the bitterly cold winter months. The entrance “doma” has been restored into a welcoming space. A self-contained second floor has been added for long-term guests.
“I had a plan in mind as soon as I saw it and I didn’t change it too much in terms of the big picture,” says Kikuchi. “But the little details changed a lot. It was a series of endless smaller projects.”
The idea of installing a marble floor in the kitchen went from dream to nightmare. It burst as soon as it was laid. Fortunately, Kikuchi’s partner — a professional chef — took over and transformed it into something that’s both stylish and functional, a place where they could prepare feasts for frequent weekend visitors.
Japanese housing market is open to foreigners
Many others — including foreigners — hope to emulate Kikuchi’s success story.
Non-Japanese citizens can purchase real estate in the country. Residency status is not necessary and there are plenty of real estate agents that cater to foreign buyers.
Most properties in Japan’s “inaka” (countryside) are not like Nakamaru, which sits on a particularly special piece of land, but vacant houses abound, cheap and sometimes even free.
While they provide an opportunity for bargain hunters, they have created a problem for local authorities and disintegrating rural communities, as empty homes reduce both desirability and property prices.
Japan’s housing and land survey in 2018 counted 8.76 million vacant homes and the number is expected to increase. Many municipalities have websites that list the vacant properties for sale to stimulate interest and sales.
“Land is the value, not the house,” he says.
“With a 3 million yen ($25,900) house, you often need another 5 million yen to make it habitable. The best deals are on existing structures with minimal renovation. The existing structure is the thing causing the unforeseen problems. ”
Also, not all of the Japanese countryside is considered equal. Hotspots are located within two hours of Tokyo or Osaka, making them accessible on weekends.
Complications, especially for foreign buyers, often arise when obtaining loans and navigating local regulations around individual properties. Some regulations require that the home be occupied full time, limit changes to existing structures, or provide farmland that requires active use.
Owning a piece of Japanese history
Tom Fay hopes to complete the renovation of his farm in Kyoto in 2022.
Tom Fay
Tom Fay, a British writer and teacher from Osaka, has overcome a number of hurdles over the past year as part of his own project: the renovation of a 100-year-old 180-square-meter farmhouse in Kyoto Prefecture.
The cost of the house? About 7 million yen (about $60,000), including fees.
“It looks wild because it’s a winding avenue with woods on three sides,” he says. “But it’s not as wild as it looks; it’s also quite close to amenities like a supermarket and train station.”
After two years of searching for the right property, it took another five months of multiple rejections to get a loan.
What drove him through the maze of rules was a desire to live closer to nature – more in keeping with his rural Welsh upbringing – and own a piece of Japanese history.
Inside, the house was part treasury, part-time capsule when Fay eventually became the owner. A calendar from 1958 hung on the wall.
Fay hopes to move into the house later in 2022.
Chrstopher Flechtner’s traditional mansion in Kyoto.
Christopher Flechtner
“The bones of the house were preserved and as long as we didn’t change square feet, we could do whatever we wanted,” he says.
The result is a modern interior space with natural light, insulation, soundproofing and many of its own design touches.
“The design is aimed at entertainment. There is always a surprise with these old houses, but the insight of the builders has helped us.”
There are dozens of machiya mansions on the market in Kyoto city. As with all real estate, prices vary widely depending on the condition of the home, location, and size.
A search of their current listings shows machiya ranging in price from 8.8 million yen (about $76,000) for a small unrenovated mansion, to 550 million yen ($4.7 million) for a set of four renovated machiya used as lodges can be used.
Reviving local communities
However, while financially within reach for many, Japan does not have a second-home ownership culture – about 0.65% of the population owns a second home, according to a survey by the Japanese government.
Gen Fukushima and his business partner Hilo Homma want that to change.
“Young people go abroad when they can and the idea of moving to a local (flat) place is impossible. Rich and secretive,” Fukushima says.
Due to the Covid pandemic, many are rethinking their relationship to offices and city life. Fukushima also wants to help those who sign up with Sanu to build a relationship with local rural areas, known as “kankei jinko,” to revitalize local businesses and communities.
“For that to happen, places need to have soft services such as coffee shops, bakeries, and organic stores to entice younger city dwellers to visit and spend time,” he says.
The location of Kikuchi’s vacation home, tiny Fujino, has elements that already make it attractive to those stepping into rural life. In addition to easy access to the capital, an “art village” and even a Steiner school mark it as a little different from most rural towns.
Years after settling in the community, Kikuchi continues to face the frailties of local life: trees hanging over their property are cut down without consultation or have to participate in regular local activities, such as cleaning roads.
But after the heavy work of a renovation, overhanging branches and litter seem like a small price for a beautiful piece of history and tranquility.