The Pile and Ploce Gates, the two entrances to Dubrovnik’s Old Town, once had drawbridges that went up at night, forcing visitors to enter to wait outside the stone walls until morning. The bridges no longer go up, but the bottlenecks of the morning visitors remain.
This compact seaside city in Croatia has attracted millions of travelers from all over the world for many years. Its popularity grew when HBO’s “Game of Thrones” used it as a primary location and the city was soon overwhelmed with visitors, especially in the summer. Officials have taken measures to manage the crowds without limiting the number of visitors, but according to the Croatian National Tourist Board, this year is well on its way to becoming the busiest city ever.
But for a trip to the “Pearl of the Adriatic” you don’t have to crowd with other tourists, who rush around like a stream of impetuous salmon. Planning takes smart timing, small sacrifices and a little bit of luck. Here are six ways to get started.
Spell the cruise ship schedule
Dubrovnik is a mainstay on cruise ship itineraries plying the Mediterranean, and 377,000 passengers disembarked last year, according to the city’s port authority. This year, that number could rise to 500,000, as up to five ships are expected daily during peak season.
The arrival of each cruise ship sends an avalanche of people into the old town, usually between 7 and 9 am. , and then usually spread out to see the city’s biggest draws – the ramparts, the main street or Stradun, or landscapes related to ‘Game of Thrones’.
To avoid joining this ebb and flow of cruise ship passengers, be sure to check the port’s timetable online. The Port Authority’s schedule and sites like Cruise Dig provide cruise ship arrival times and the potential number of travelers disembarking. The number of arriving passengers is more important than the number of ships.
A two-hour buffer should be enough to avoid the crowds at the gates, the Jesuit Stairs (best known for the “Walk of Shame” scene in “Game of Thrones”), or the city’s other major attractions.
The city also offers visitors to Dubrovnik, an online resource that estimates how busy the old city is at any given time, and also uses machine learning to predict visitor numbers for future dates.
Hit the photo shoot during the golden hour
The streets of the city become somewhat empty in the late afternoon. Day-trippers shuffle outside while other visitors rush to the city walls for selfies or even the occasional proposal of marriage at sunset. The golden hour is a better time to take in the old town, with a stop at Onofrio’s fountains before getting lost in the narrow passages and streets.
If you need a photo you can hashtag, check the hallways and stairs under the walls for unique photos; there will be much less jostling for space.
But don’t skip the city’s fortifications altogether. Undulating terracotta rooftops that spill out into the distant, shimmering Adriatic Sea remain a unique view for Dubrovnik. It is best experienced once the walls open at 8am, before the crowds and before the sun rises high. A visit costs 35 euros ($38), but the Dubrovnik Pass, which costs the same, offers access to the city walls, discounts on other attractions and free public transport.
Take a breather in a monastery
One can find respite from the congestion by ducking into one of the city’s two monasteries and their courtyards. Each room offers stone walkways lined by arches, with lush greenery in the center and history everywhere. They are open daily from 9am to 6pm
The 14th century Franciscan Monastery, just past the Pile Gate, has elegant pillars that surround a courtyard with a small fountain and orange and palm trees (entrance: €6). Next door is Europe’s oldest operating pharmacy, with formulas, tools and tincture bottles on display.
The Dominican Convent, closer to the Ploce Gate, offers a larger version of the same charms, housed in a larger complex that blends into the city’s fortifications (€5).
In both monasteries, the atmosphere encourages muted tones and meditative silence, perhaps good places to sip water while contemplating Dubrovnik’s talent for preserving and trading its historical beauty at the same time.
Find life beyond the walls
Experienced travelers often sneak into the Gruz and Lapad neighborhoods to find better cuisine, easier access to nature, and fewer crowds. These neighborhoods form the de facto urban heart of Dubrovnik, where many of the approximately 40,000 inhabitants actually live, and can be reached from the Old Town in a 30-minute walk or a 10-minute bus or taxi ride.
The waterfront in Gruz offers relaxing dining options, a nightclub, Klub Dubina, and a local craft brewery, the Dubrovnik Beer Company. For traditional fish dishes under a vaulted ceiling, you can have everything grilled at Glorijet. One of the city’s more inventive vegetarian restaurants, Urban & Veggie offers homemade gnocchi with cashew Parmesan and refreshing lemon tarts.
Opposite Gruz is the lush greenery of Lapad, including Velika Forest Park and Mala Petka. A boardwalk along the seawall reveals several impromptu swimming areas and a beach.
The neighborhood restaurants here offer variety, experimentation and unique experiences. The Ponat Beach Bar has a slick combination of seaside snacks and drinks that can extend your night past midnight. Or have a coffee or nightcap at Cave Bar More – which claustrophobic visitors should probably skip.
A green oasis, just off the coast
What is the antithesis of Dubrovnik’s imposing city walls and terracotta roofs? An island covered with pine, cypress and olive trees, just off the coast.
Lokrum Island, a 10-minute ferry ride away, is one of the few places even locals visit to beat the summer crowds. The island has a visitor centre, bars and restaurants, as well as botanical gardens and peacocks that roam among the remains of an abandoned medieval monastery.
The more adventurous can head to FKK Rocks, in the southeast corner of the island, to partake in Croatia’s long history of nudist beaches (bring a thick towel – the rocks can be uncomfortable on bare skin).
In the visitor center one can find a “comfortable” seat on the original Iron Throne from “Game of Thrones”, donated by HBO to the city of Dubrovnik.
Ferries depart approximately every 30 minutes from the port of the old town (€7). Entrance to the island, €27.
Continue to sea
Only 50 of Croatia’s 1,244 islands have permanent residents, leaving most of the truly untouched nature offshore. Six miles northwest of the ancient city, the Elaphiti Islands provide visitors and city dwellers alike with an up-close look at nature. The eight islands and five islets contain cozy coves and secluded beaches that surpass most mainland swimming opportunities. (In Croatia, the coastline is publicly accessible.)
Three of the islands – Sipan, Lopud and Kolocep – have modest villages with few inhabitants. After the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik, time feels much slower here.
Renting a ship offers the best chance for a one-day island-hopping itinerary, and most have skippers available for an additional fee. Prices vary, a group of four can expect to pay around €70 per person for a smaller motorboat without a skipper, with costs increasing as the vessel gets bigger. Some companies, such as Dubrovnik Boats, offer tailor-made or pre-packaged tours and vessels of various sizes.
Kayaks are also available for rent, most of the tour outfits are located on Sulic Beach, by the Pile Gate. Again, prices vary depending on whether you’re joining a group tour or going solo, but expect to spend around €40 for about four hours on the water.
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