Inside “the world’s most ultra-luxury resort”, at $100,000 a night

From the moment you step through the main entrance, Atlantis the Royal puts on a show. Water flows down glass walls, while fire flares up every now and then. The pressure to post to Instagram is immediate, as you’ve arrived at the self-titled “most ultra-luxurious” resort in the world.

However, this is not the world. It’s Dubai, where “ultra luxury” has a specific meaning and where nouveau riche aesthetics are dizzyingly embraced. Wealth like this is made for showing off, not sitting quietly in savings accounts. Ultra luxury is over the top, clad in gold and marble.

That’s what $1.2 billion Atlantis the Royal, the newest property of Dubai-based hotelier Kerzner International Ltd., delivered with a January “Grand Reveal” show starring Beyonce: And it’s what guests have experienced since the opening of 795 rooms in mid-February.

The journey of opulence begins in the hotel lobby, where the unifying theme of water (Atlantis, remember?) is hammered home with a towering water sculpture and floor pool cutouts that guests occasionally tumble into. Check-in takes place at unmarked gold counters, which require constant polishing with microfiber cloths to remove terrible signs of human presence, such as fingerprints.

Company officials initially made headlines by saying the top-level suite, the Royal Mansion, would cost $100,000 a night. Now a spokeswoman is demure about the price, saying it is available on request. And in February, Louis Vuitton booked the room for a private shopping event, so I couldn’t come over. Instead, I was shown the Panoramic Penthouse, which was breathtaking – starting at 135,260 dirhams ($36,825), plus 22% in taxes, it was better. Shampoos and other amenities in the rooms come from Hermès, Frette and Graff. On one side of the hotel, guests have unobstructed views of the blue-green Persian Gulf. The other side overlooks the foliage of the artificial Palm Jumeirah archipelago and the mansions of billionaires and royalty.

I stayed in a Seascape King, one of the standard rooms, but I use the term lightly. The studio starts at about 4,135 dirhams per night in high season. It is large enough for a king size bed, recliner and desk, and spacious closets. The furniture is comfortable and amenities in the large bathrooms include gold toothbrushes, combs, a back scrubber, flip flops and a beach bag, all of which can be taken home free of charge.

For a resort that promises “something incredible is happening at every moment of your stay,” the basic rooms lack a wow factor. They are beautiful, for sure, and the views are phenomenal. I was delighted to see a high-tech Toto-branded bidet toilet with a heated seat, though it made me wish the bathroom floors were heated as well. (Clearly I’m being spoiled.)

But this is not a hotel where guests hide in their rooms. Instead, they don their trendiest beachwear, snap selfies in front of the Bellagio-style fountains, shop at the Valentino boutique, or book a cabana at one of the many outdoor lounges. At Nobu by the Beach, for 10,000 dirhams extra, you and nine friends have access to a living room, a private changing room and shower, and a small private pool. The rate includes two bottles of champagne and some snacks.

But first, you might want to get a Botox supplement, ozone dialysis, or stem cell therapy at the on-site Aeon Clinic for “regenerative wellness.” Or head to the real showstopper: the Cloud 22 lounge, an open-air space on the 22nd floor with thumping club music and a strong wind. A double ledge infinity pool is all that separates you from the resort below. Again, you can book cabanas for an additional fee and get your own private plunge pool, which the resort does not count as one of the 90 on-site pools, including 44 in private suites.

The stunning Awaken spa has separate relaxation areas for men and women, but six hammams or Turkish baths have yet to open. The meditation with dolphins program is also under consideration.

The room rate includes access to Aquaventure, the adjacent water park billed as the world’s largest. My 3 year old daughter had a blast in the toddler splash areas, and if we had more time I would have braved the slides with 360 degree loops and dark tunnels. With day passes starting at 315 dirhams for adults, this certainly adds to the value you get for your room.

At the hotel, each of the seven celebrity chef restaurants has a unique atmosphere and design, but the level of service is stellar across the board. When we had lunch at Jaleo by Jose Andre (get the rossejat, a paella-style pasta), four different people asked if we wanted a high chair for our daughter. At the breakfast buffet, she suddenly felt like tofu, and the kitchen was happy to provide a plate full. Meanwhile, I hadn’t finished my latte before my cup was taken away and replaced with a new one twice.

This is where Atlantis the Royal earns its name and its ultra-luxury reputation. Every few feet as you walk the grounds, a security guard, caretaker, lifeguard, or cleaner puts their right hand over their heart, leans forward, and says hello. All the properties run by Kerzner have adopted this apparent Covid era gesture, but it certainly made me feel like a queen.

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