The unofficial summer has officially started. Looking forward to eating outside as much as possible before it gets unbearably hot. (I’m a summer agnostic.) That said, it’s question time for readers, and as usual, my inbox was packed with thoughtful and fun requests, including where to go for a large-sized dinner, where carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes ) and where to get great non-alcoholic drinks.
As always, please email your questions to wheretoeat., and you may see them answered in a future newsletter.
Duck, pig or sea bass?
One of our favorite things to do with friends is to eat out where a family style set menu is offered. We recently dined at Momofuku Ssam Bar for the pork shoulder dinner. Can you recommend other restaurants that offer this kind of experience? — Joy W.
Francia, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, has a whole roast duck for $135 that’s presented with various flora before being sliced. It’s definitely worth ordering if you can afford it, especially for the soppressata jam which, I agree with Pete Wells, is good enough to lick off “a pile of junk”. Farmer, at NoLIta, serves a family-style whole pork roast with antipasti, sides, and dessert for $125 per person, with at least four days’ notice and provided there are six or more people in your party. And Mr Vo, in the East Village, has a few big dishes, including a whole sea bass that is market price, and the Monsieur Platter ($48), which includes four types of meat skewers with the option to add more, as well as side dishes such as vermicelli and roasted peanuts that you then assemble into your own bites. We call that fun with food.
Find Carciofi alla Giudia
Just spent a week in Rome where I fell in love with Roman artichokes, Jewish style. Ate them several times that week. Where can I find them in NYC? — Lisa S.
I ate this exact type of fried artichoke drizzled with lemon juice and dressed with mint and red chilli flakes at Bottino, in Chelsea, a few weeks ago. The opportunity? My sister’s wedding! Talk about kismet. They are also on the menu Trattoria Makosaa small but mighty Italian restaurant in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, that I mentioned a few months ago.
Non-boring non-alcoholic drinks
Since I recently had to stop drinking alcohol due to health reasons, I was hoping you could direct me to the restaurants with the most creative non-alcoholic drink programs. I can only drink so much sparkling water! — Ira L.
I wasn’t quite sure if you were looking for non-alcoholic drinks that mimicked cocktails, or just really creative non-alcoholic ones. So I have recommendations for both. I see the bogus Negroni from the Brooklyn Distiller St. Agrestis on loads of menus and, as a Negroni obsessive, I endorse it as an alternative. El Quijote has a version of the restaurant’s famous sangria cheekily called Santa Sangre, as well as a G+T without the G. And the eternally excellent Gramercy Tavern has non-alcoholic red wine and a non-alcoholic cocktail list with four options, including two seasonal sprites (currently strawberry rhubarb and green apple fennel).
In the category of creative drinks, yes abcV, Jean-Georges’ health-focused restaurant in the Flatiron neighborhood. In between bites of your mushroom and walnut bolognese, enjoy any number of “juices, tonics, and vibrations.” I’d choose Root Reboot because lemon and ginger are my life, though a pollen shake might be the best way to toast the dustiest spring ever. Or if you really prefer some pork al pastor, Atlasin NoHo, has six agua frescas that range from the traditional hibiscus to a more experimental yuzu avocado.
In other news…
The dream of top shelf Peking duck is alive and well Juqi, the Beijing-based chain with a new location in Flushing, Queens. In his review, Pete Wells writes that the restaurant gets “all the intricacies of roasting, cutting and serving – so consistent and satisfying.”
Openings: The migrant kitchenknown for its eclectic mix of cuisines, Lamb Torta and Esquites will serve hot dogs at Ballfields Café in Central Park; the Golden Swan has taken over the space that once housed the Spotted Pig, in the West Village; and Hand Hospitality is at it again Moona more informal project from the chef behind Michelin-starred restaurant Jua.
Kim Severson delivered a deep dive what restaurant hospitality looks like after the pandemic and labor shortage devastated the industry.
If you find yourself in southern New Mexico anytime soon, consider stopping by Chope’s Town Bar & Cafethe family-run restaurant with a beloved (and closely guarded) chili con queso recipe, reports Maggie Hennessy.
Here’s how Zouheir Louhaichy, the head maître d’ at Balthazarspends his Sundays.
Nicholas Gray, the founder of the popular hot dog stand Gray’s Papayadied on May 19 at the age of 86.
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