In Jordan, which shares a border with Israel and the West Bank, the atmosphere has been heavy since October
On a Tuesday evening, a crowd of men, women and children gathered outside the al-Kalouti Mosque in Amman, Jordan. They carry Palestinian flags and hold signs that read: “Food, water and medicine are rights, not privileges” and “Stop ethnic cleansing.” Some show images of Benjamin Netanyahu, Joe Biden and Abdel Fattah el-Sisi next to condemning messages. In a voice almost breaking, a man shouts: “We are sorry, people of Gaza.”
In Jordan, which shares a border with Israel and the West Bank, the atmosphere has been heavy since October. More than half of the Jordanian population is Palestinian or of Palestinian descent, and in the capital Amman that number is much higher. Many have family in Palestine. “People are living in a ghostly state,” said Jumana Abdin, a Palestinian Jordanian woman living and working in Amman. “It's like my life is moving in slow motion. When we look at how the world reacts and how people still justify murder, it shows how much our lives are worth in their eyes.” It stirs up a lot of emotions, she said, especially among the older generation who lived through the nakba, or the mass displacement and dispossession of Palestinians during the 1948 Arab-Israeli war.
“In Germany you have to wonder if you will get in trouble if you show support for Palestine, but Amman feels like a refuge,” said David Ghannam, a Palestinian German who works in the development sector in Amman and recently traveled to Germany and Gaza. early 2023. “There is a sense of unity in Amman. We all collectively mourn the loss of innocent lives.”
Throughout Amman, signs of solidarity are ever-present: Palestinian flags hang from storefronts and in cafes; watermelon images on billboards, clothing and stationery; people putting on keffiyehs; daily demonstrations near the mosque. Fundraisers for Gaza are held regularly, and businesses have carried out strikes in solidarity. Starbucks and McDonalds stores in the city remain empty. In supermarkets, customers are embracing local products, a shift that stems from a refusal to buy products from countries that actively support Israel, such as the US and Germany.
Another byproduct of the war is a drastic drop in the number of tourists arriving in Jordan. Petra, which attracted 4,000 to 5,000 visitors daily before October, has received only 400 visitors on some days, according to the regional tourism authority. The Bedouin-run shops at the famous archaeological site are still deserted. “We have experienced difficult days because the Bedouin's main source of income is tourism,” said Hussein W, who runs the Harmony Luxury Camp in Wadi Rum. “Now the situation is better because visitors who did come spread the word and said things are safe and stable here. But we hope for an end to the war.”
During the month of Ramadan, the streets of Amman usually come alive with decorations and there is a festive atmosphere as people break their fast at sunset with a variety of foods. However, this Ramadan was different. “People are [hesitant] to show some sense of celebration,” Abdin said. “The streets are less busy, restaurants are emptier and people stay at home more. On the other hand, the more than fourteen hours of fasting strengthened our sense of solidarity with our brothers and sisters in Gaza, who have been without food or water for days.
Yamuna Matheswaran is an independent journalist based in Amman.