Eliyah Haque, 6, had her hands painted with henna in the Jackson Heights neighborhood of Queens. When asked what her favorite part of Eid celebrations was, she said, “We get together.”
South Asian Muslims, both local to the area and from other boroughs and states, flocked to Jackson Heights on Thursday night to celebrate Chand Raat, a festival the night before Eid al-Fitr to usher in the holiday.
Chand Raat, a South Asian Muslim celebration that encapsulates the intersection of religion and culture, translates to “night of the moon” in Urdu and Hindi. It is observed on the last night of Ramadan, when the new moon is observed, signaling the end of the month of fasting.
The night’s action took place at Diversity Plaza, the town square celebrating the Jackson Heights global mash-up. With about 180,000 inhabitants and 167 languages, it is perhaps the most diverse neighborhood in the world. And it is home to a prominent South Asian community.
“Eid Mubarak!” signs waved across the streets. Folk songs from Punjabi, Bollywood and Bangla blare from car speakers. Vendors set up tables with salwar kameez of all colors and elaborate gold jewelry. (Some joke that Eid is the “Muslim Met Gala”.) Fireworks lit up the sky.
Rummana Amrin, a 24-year-old substitute teacher at P.S. 11 and a student at Teachers College at Columbia University, set up her henna table outside Patel Brothers, an Indian supermarket, at 4 p.m. She is a henna artist since 2017.
Mrs Amrin sat at her table taking customer after customer until 3am. “I would make people wait for me for almost three hours because they would love the designs I make,” she said.
But she doesn’t mind the busy hours. “I really love it because I see how people react after having their hands decorated,” she said.
Anik Khan, a musician and an influential member of the community, was noticed in the crowd. “That’s Anik Khan!” some shouted as he made his way to Ready Penny Inn, a dive bar in the middle of the action. (The bar was almost empty—a stark contrast to the chaos outside. Mr. Khan called it “it’s upside down in Jackson Heights.”)
Growing up, Mr. Khan, who lived in the Astoria neighborhood of Queens, came to Jackson Heights every year with his cousins and sisters for Chand Raat.
“My favorite part is actually having a place where people feel like it’s Eid,” he said. During Christmas and other holidays, he noted, there are decorations in the streets that make people feel the holiday spirit. “That’s what Jackson Heights has envisioned for Eid,” he said.
“That’s why I come – because you feel seen,” he added.
At about 9:30 PM, Bengali singers took the stage to perform classic, vibrant Bangla folk songs as the audience sang along. The set ended with a rendition of Momtaz Begum’s “Morar Kokile”.
Close to the stage, a group of mostly young men who had recently emigrated to the city jumped up and down with their hands in the air to the beat of the fiery dholaks (drums).
Usama Siddiquee, a 32-year-old comedian, said onlookers would comment on how wild the scene was. “But that’s just us saying hello. You know? That’s just ‘Assalamualaikum,'” he said.
There are few planners of the Jackson Heights Festival. According to neighborhood lore, people began gathering in the area to celebrate Chand Raat in the early 1980s, as waves of South Asians began to immigrate to the city and Jackson Heights became a hub for their culture.
“You see so much joy, but in an unfiltered, organic way,” said Shekar Krishnan, a council member representing the Jackson Heights and Elmhurst neighborhoods.
Mr. Krishnan said that he loves seeing friends on every street corner on Chand Raat. It is a large community, but a close-knit one.
For Nusrat Hossain, a 26-year-old medical assistant, the meeting is grounding and refreshing. Growing up in Elmhurst, she always visited Jackson Heights for Chand Raat. She still runs into former classmates she hasn’t seen in years.
“It is a reflection of the vibrancy, strength and presence of our South Asian Muslim community – in Jackson Heights, our Bangladeshi community in particular,” said Mr. Krishnan.
On March 26, 73rd Street at 37th Avenue was renamed Bangladesh Street, an initiative Mr. Krishnan helped lead. “This is a recognition that is long overdue,” he said. That intersection, according to Mr. Krishnan the heart of New York City’s Bangladeshi community.
On Chand Raat, Mr. Krishnan goes to find Fuska House, a food truck. Fuchka, a Bangladeshi street snack of fried semolina dough filled with spicy chickpeas, potatoes and toppings, is a favorite among revelers.
Sellers began lining up early in the day to file a claim. Similar celebrations also take place in other parts of the city, including Coney Island and Jamaica, Queens. Slowly throughout the day the action built up.
There’s also a party in the Jamaica section of Queens, another South Asian hub. In a phone interview, Nabiha Khan, 22, a henna artist, said she always settles somewhere between 167th Street and 173rd Street on Hillside Avenue. She’s been doing this since 2016, painting as many as 100 hands in a night, she said.
“If you stay there, they’ll keep coming,” she said. “It’s grueling work.”
Mrs. Khan taught herself henna when she was 12, after being inspired by a cousin who would decorate the hands of the family every Chand Raat.
Chand Raat is a night of reflection for Mrs. Khan. “Fasting every day for thirty days is not easy,” she said. “And this month’s goal is so much bigger than starving yourself. It is for reflection, for having gratitude, for learning that you can be more disciplined.
When she wasn’t at a henna stall at night, she spent time with her mother. They will also cook together for Eid al-Fitr gatherings today. Since house-hopping is traditional during the holidays, dozens of families visit her every year.
“Even if it’s hectic, even if it’s crazy, it’s part of the ride,” said Mr. Khan, the artist. He briefly lived in Virginia while in high school, where there was little South Asian diversity, and returned to Queens with a heightened sense of cultural pride. “I will give up square footage for culture every day,” he said.