I think I suffer from a case of fashion stubbornness: I just don’t like office clothes that are ‘in’. Since returning to work, I’ve noticed that the way I dress is quite different from the other women in my office. I much prefer the tailored styles of yesteryear to the unstructured sweaters, ruffles and puff sleeves that are everywhere. Are there ways to update my weekday uniform without giving up my blazers, figure-hugging power dresses and skinny pants? — Anna, Branford, Conn.
The good news is that we’re in a post-trend world, where pretty much anything is possible: not just for denim, where skinny/boyfriend/faded/dark/flared jeans are always available, but for decades (’60s ! ’70s ! ’80! ’90!) and hemlines. Which are up, down and everywhere in between.
The big sweaters, frilled blouses and oversized jackets you see are essentially the public displays of the comfort, hem and nap dressing that became popular during the pandemic. It’s a kind of bridge dressing when we go from home back to the workplace.
But there’s a good chance the tailored blazer and suit are about to make a comeback, judging by the recent Balenciaga show on the New York Stock Exchange, which was heavy on the white collar dress. Not to mention the variety of jackets that can be seen even on the red carpet in Cannes.
All of this means that while there are unspoken uniforms that reflect certain subcultures, especially office subcultures, that doesn’t mean that what you wear isn’t part of the bigger picture.
So the question is not how to update your wardrobe (your wardrobe is completely contemporary) but how to strike a balance between fitting in with your colleagues – demonstrating that you are a member of the group, which is really what office dress codes are about – with your feel comfortable and effective (and authentic) as yourself? That confidence, wherever you find it, is simply the best look for work.
Still, it shouldn’t be complicated to reach some sort of compromise. A smart jacket and slim pants look great with a variety of T-shirts or detailed blouses, which you can leave behind for a slightly less sleek effect. Anne Fontaine built an entire business on repeats on the classic white shirt. They are very expensive, but still a great source of inspiration.
Or try a mismatched blazer with your skinny pants, to distance yourself from the matchy-matchiness of a suit, which can seem dated. Take the edge off a power dress without losing any of the punch by adding some costume jewelry or a scarf. And if you want to experiment without the obligation to buy, spin pieces in and out of services like Rent the Runway until you find a sartorial balance that seems right.
We’re a long way from the man in the gray flannel suit, but that doesn’t mean getting dressed for the office is any easier.
Your style questions, answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa answers a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send her anytime via e-mail or Twitter† Questions have been edited and compressed.